Sasha Sarago The decolonizing of beauty TED

Transcriber:

Today, I would like
to talk to you about beauty

and how we’ve got it all wrong when it
comes to our perceptions of women,

particularly Aboriginal women.

But before I do, I would like to
acknowledge the traditional custodians

of the land in which I stand upon:

the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation.

I pay my respects to the elders past,
present and emerging

and give thanks to our ancestors
who guide and protect us.

It was 1990, and I was pumped.

I was off to my first birthday party,

just before I hit the terrible teens.

No chaperone,

and no bratty sister to tag along
so she could snitch.

I had my cute little outfit on,

gift in hand,

and I was hoping that this little cutie
that I liked would show up.

And I was hoping that this little cutie
would ask me this one question.

You know that question that makes
your heart beat right out your chest –

Do you want to be my girlfriend? –

even though I had no business
having a boyfriend at that age.

But it didn’t matter,

because back then,
it was all about the rush.

I never did get asked that question.

But the question I did get asked was:

What’s your background?

And like any proud
Aboriginal child would declare,

“I’m Aboriginal.”

Given the reaction of the room,

being Aboriginal was clearly a dirty word.

And at the tender age of 11,

I was told by my best
friend’s adult sister

that I was too pretty to be Aboriginal.

By this time, my mouth is dry,
my blood is boiling,

and I’m trying so hard to fight back
what feels like an ocean of tears.

I calmly join my circle of friends

and begin to fake laugh
at whatever is funny

to mask my embarrassment,

as I clutch on to my newfound complex.

And this is why we need to change
our perceptions of beauty.

And how we do this is by learning
from Aboriginal women,

their stories and perspectives.

Because right now, “pretty” hurts.

Pretty hurts because you’re trying
to erase my Aboriginality,

to applaud my proximity to whiteness.

Pretty hurts because aimed
at an Aboriginal woman,

it is a weapon loaded in racism,

sexual exploitation

and cultural genocide.

You see, what this woman didn’t realize

when she declared that I was
too pretty to be Aboriginal

is that she took something
precious from me:

pride in my identity.

You see, I belong to the oldest
living culture in the world,

but that day, that legacy –

it was replaced with shame,

and it’s been this filthy stain
I’ve been trying to get rid of

for 20 years.

And this is where
my obsession for beauty comes from,

over the years,
trying to mimic it as a model,

advocating for diversity in fashion,

to launching “Ascension” magazine
to celebrate women of color,

whose beauty is still underrepresented.

With much pain and trauma behind one word,

“pretty” taught me,
through my indigeneity,

I could reclaim my beauty.

To Indigenous women,

true beauty came from
the traditional roles we upheld,

our kinship systems,

connection to country and the waterways

and how we pass this ancient knowledge
down to the next generation.

The way we express beauty

was never defined against
a Eurocentric ideal of beauty.

You see, in my culture,
our beauty is not monolithic.

It’s not measured by a thin waistline,
porcelain skin or slender hips.

It runs much deeper than that.

So what does indigenous beauty look like?

Oh, it’s fierce, defiant and proud.

And one ancestor who epitomizes
indigenous beauty is Barangaroo,

a powerful Cammeraygal woman.

Revered for her wisdom and independence,
Barangaroo, like the Eora other women,

took pride in their status as being
the main food providers for their tribe.

A skillful and patient fisherwoman,

Barangaroo would access Sydney Harbour
and its surrounding waters

for its abundant food supply,

only taking what was needed.

So you can just imagine
how furious Barangaroo was

when she saw British colonists
troll 4,000 salmon off the north shore

in just one day,

then gifting some
of this catch to her husband

and some of the other men from her tribe.

Barangaroo knew such a wasteful act

would threaten the Eora women’s
cultural authority within the tribe,

furthermore destroying
their traditional way of life.

So Barangaroo rejected
British laws and customs,

their food, drink and social etiquette,

even when her husband decided to conform.

When Barangaroo and her husband Bennelong
were invited to dine with Governor Phillip

and the British party,

Barangaroo stayed true to who she was.

instead of wearing colonial attire –

a tight corset and a gown layered
in silk finished with pearls –

she came sporting her traditional wares:

white ochre and a bone through her nose.

What Barangaroo illustrated was:
indigenous beauty is authentic.

Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo,
a respected Gamilaraay elder,

shared a story
with a group of women one day,

and she said,

“We all have a bit of Barangaroo in us.”

Later that evening, I thought about
Aunty Beryl’s message.

And what I received from her message was,

no matter our culture,

color or how we identify,

spirit is what we share.

It’s what connects us.

You see, if we indigenize beauty,

the meaning is transformed
from aesthetically pleasing

to a state of divinity;

beauty now becomes spirit manifested.

Not only is spirit found within us,

it’s in all things.

It’s in the landscapes,
it’s in the elements.

The Yolngu people
of northeast Arnhem Land,

they have a Dreamtime story:

Walu, the Sun woman.

They say Walu lights
a small fire each morning,

which creates the dawn.

She then paints her body in red ochre.

And as she does, some of it
falls onto the clouds,

creating the sunrise.

She then makes a torch
from a stringybark tree

and carries this fire across the sky
from east to west,

creating the daylight.

And when it’s time for her journey to end,

she descends from the sky.

And as she does, some of the red ochre
from her body falls onto the clouds,

creating the sunset.

Indigenous beauty can be seen
right across this continent,

each Aboriginal nation with its own
creation stories of how we came to be –

astronomy, medicine, agriculture,
architecture, education, innovation.

And when we had conflict,

we had lore, l-o-r-e, to restore order.

Like the seasons,
flora and fauna, night and day,

we are all interconnected.

One does not work without the other –

the very principles which binds
humanity together.

Over the years, my obsession for beauty,

it’s led me to this truth:

you cannot appreciate beauty

if you cannot recognize it in yourself.

So how do we change
our perceptions of beauty?

We have to get real with ourselves

and start by asking: Who am I?

Where do I come from?

The world that I live in –
how did it come to be?

And more importantly: Where to from here?

You may not like what you discover.

But sit with it, feel the discomfort.

Colonization has stolen from us

one of the greatest treasures
we can obtain:

each other.

This year alone, we’ve witnessed
pathological political and social unrest.

That is why healing
is the antidote humanity needs

because it leads us to unity.

When we decolonize beauty,

we are reintroduced
to our authentic selves.

I used to wonder whatever happened
to that woman from the birthday party,

you know, the one that told me
I was too pretty to be Aboriginal.

A moment that was so devastating
helped me to embrace my girgorou.

“Girgorou” means “beautiful” in Jirrbal,
my grandmother’s language.

I now know that my girgorou is mighty,

like Barangaroo.

And my girgorou, like Walu,

it’s everlasting,

from when that sun rises
to when that sun sets.

Are you ready to embrace your girgorou?

Thank you.

(Applause)

抄写员:

今天,我想和
你谈谈美

,以及
我们对女性,

尤其是土著女性的看法是如何搞错的。

但在此之前,我要感谢

我所立足之地的传统守护者:

伊奥拉国家的加迪加尔人。

我向过去、现在和新兴的长辈致敬

,感谢
引导和保护我们的祖先。

那是 1990 年,我很兴奋。

我要去参加我的第一个生日派对,

就在我遇到可怕的青少年之前。

没有监护人,

也没有讨厌的妹妹可以跟上,
这样她就可以告发了。

我穿上了我可爱的小衣服,

手里拿着礼物

,我
希望我喜欢的这个小可爱会出现。

我希望这个小可爱
会问我这个问题。

你知道那个让
你心跳加速的问题——

你想做我的女朋友吗? ——

尽管我
在那个年纪没有男朋友。

但这没关系,

因为那时,
一切都是为了赶时间。

我从来没有被问过这个问题。

但我确实被问到的问题是:

你的背景是什么?

就像任何自豪的
原住民孩子都会宣称:

“我是原住民。”

考虑到房间的反应,

作为土著显然是一个肮脏的词。

在 11 岁的时候,

我最好
朋友的成年姐姐

告诉我,我太漂亮了,不能成为土著。

到了这个时候,我的嘴巴很干,
我的血液在沸腾

,我正在努力
反击那种感觉就像是泪水汪洋的感觉。

我平静地加入我的朋友圈

,开始假
笑任何有趣的事情

来掩盖我的尴尬,

因为我抓住了我新发现的情结。

这就是为什么我们需要改变
我们对美的看法。

我们如何做到这一点是通过
向土著妇女学习

她们的故事和观点。

因为现在,“漂亮”很痛。

很痛,因为你
试图抹去我的原住民

身份,为我接近白人而鼓掌。

很痛,因为它针对
的是土著妇女

,是一种充满种族主义、

性剥削

和文化种族灭绝的武器。

你看,当这个女人

宣称我
太漂亮而不是土著

时,她没有意识到的是,她
从我身上夺走了一些珍贵的东西:

对我的身份感到自豪。

你看,我属于世界上最古老的
现存文化,

但那一天,那个遗产——

它被耻辱所取代

,这是

20年来一直试图摆脱的污点。

这就是
我对美的痴迷的来源,

多年来,我
试图模仿它作为模特,

倡导时尚的多样性

,推出“提升”杂志
来庆祝有色人种的女性,她们

的美貌仍然未被充分代表。

一个词背后有很多痛苦和创伤,

“漂亮”教会了我,
通过我的本土性,

我可以恢复我的美丽。

对于土著妇女来说,

真正的美来自
我们所坚守的传统角色、

我们的亲属关系、

与国家和水道的联系

以及我们如何将这些古老的知识
传递给下一代。

我们表达美的方式

从未被定义为
以欧洲为中心的美的理想。

你看,在我的文化中,
我们的美不是单一的。

它不是用细腰线、
瓷质皮肤或纤细的臀部来衡量的。

它比这更深入。

那么土著美女是什么样的呢?

哦,它是凶猛的、挑衅的和骄傲的。

一位代表
土著美的祖先是 Barangaroo,

一位强大的 Cammeraygal 女性。

Barangaroo 因其智慧和独立而
受人尊敬,与 Eora 的其他女性一样,

以她们作为部落主要食物供应者的身份而自豪。

Barangaroo 是一位技艺高超、耐心的渔民,她

会前往悉尼港
及其周边水域,

因为那里有丰富的食物供应,

只取所需的东西。

因此,您可以想象

当 Barangaroo 看到英国殖民者在一天之内
将 4,000 条鲑鱼从北岸拖走时,她会多么愤怒

然后将其中
一些渔获物送给她的丈夫

和她部落的其他一些人。

Barangaroo 知道这种浪费行为

会威胁到部落内 Eora 妇女的
文化权威,

进而破坏
她们的传统生活方式。

所以 Barangaroo 拒绝
英国的法律和习俗、

他们的食物、饮料和社交礼仪,

即使她的丈夫决定顺从。

当 Barangaroo 和她的丈夫 Bennelong
被邀请与 Phillip 州长

和英国政党

共进晚餐时,Barangaroo 仍然忠于自己。

她没有穿殖民时期的服装

——紧身胸衣和饰
有珍珠的丝绸长袍——

她带着她的传统服饰来了:

白色的赭石和一根穿过她鼻子的骨头。

Barangaroo 说明的是:
土著美是真实的。 一位受人尊敬的

Gamilaraay 长老 Beryl Van-Oploo 姨妈

有一天与一群女性分享了一个故事

,她说:

“我们都有点 Barangaroo。”

那天晚上晚些时候,我想起了
贝丽尔阿姨的信息。

我从她的信息中得到的是,

无论我们的文化、

肤色或我们如何识别,

精神就是我们所共有的。

它是连接我们的东西。

你看,如果我们把美本土化

,意义就
从审美上的愉悦

变成了一种神圣的状态;

美现在成为精神的体现。

精神不仅存在于我们体内,

它存在于所有事物中。

它在风景中
,在元素中。

阿纳姆地东北部的 Yolngu 人,

他们有一个梦幻时代的故事:

Walu,太阳女人。

他们说Walu
每天早上都会点燃小火

,创造黎明。

然后她用赭红色画她的身体。

当她这样做时,其中一些
落在云层上,

创造了日出。

然后,她用
一根细长的树皮制作了一个火炬,

并将这火
从东到西带到了天空,

创造了日光。

当她的旅程结束时,

她从天而降。

就在她这样做的时候,
她身上的一些赭红色落到了云层上,

形成了日落。

在这片大陆上随处可见原住民之美,

每个土著民族都有自己的
创世故事——

天文学、医学、农业、
建筑、教育、创新。

当我们发生冲突时,

我们有知识,l-o-r-e,来恢复秩序。

就像季节、
动植物、白天和黑夜一样,

我们都是相互联系的。

一个人没有另一个人就无法工作——

正是这些原则将
人类联系在一起。

多年来,我对美的痴迷

,让我明白了一个道理:

如果你不能从自己身上认识到美,你就无法欣赏美。

那么我们如何改变
我们对美的看法呢?

我们必须真实面对自己

,首先要问:我是谁?

我从哪里来?

我生活的世界——
它是怎么来的?

更重要的是:从这里到哪里?

你可能不喜欢你发现的东西。

但是坐下来,感觉不舒服。

殖民已经从我们那里偷走了我们

可以获得的最伟大的宝藏之一

彼此。

仅今年一年,我们就目睹了
病态的政治和社会动荡。

这就是为什么治愈
是人类需要的解毒剂,

因为它引导我们走向合一。

当我们对美进行非殖民化时,

我们会被重新
引入真实的自我。

我曾经想知道
生日派对上那个女人发生了什么事,

你知道的,那个告诉我
我太漂亮了,不能成为土著的那个女人。

一个如此毁灭性的时刻
帮助我拥抱了我的 girgorou。

“Girgorou”在我祖母的语言 Jirrbal 中意为“美丽”

我现在知道我的 girgorou 很强大,

就像 Barangaroo 一样。

而我的girgorou,就像Walu一样

,是永恒的,

从太阳升起
到太阳落山。

你准备好拥抱你的女孩了吗?

谢谢你。

(掌声)