5 skin health myths to stop believing now Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter
Transcriber:
We put a lot of importance
into caring for our skin,
which makes sense, since it’s the first
thing other people see.
Skin might also be one of the most
misunderstood parts of our bodies,
so today, I’d like to run through some
of the most common myths
we have about our skin.
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[Body Stuff with Dr. Jen Gunter]
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Myth number one – healthy skin
is skin that looks flawless.
When we think of healthy skin,
we might think of a clear,
even surface that’s radiant
and devoid of blemishes.
But skin is a living organ,
just like the heart or lungs
and just like any other organ,
it’s complex, serves many functions,
and not just about what’s
going on at the surface.
The epidermis is the outer
layer we can see.
It’s made up of different cell types,
including keratinocytes,
which are replaced every four weeks.
As new cells grow at the base,
old cells are pushed up
and form a harder layer that’s difficult
for water or microbes to cross.
Our keratinocytes also synthesize
vitamin D from the sun,
which is vital for our health.
Other important cells in the epidermis
include melanocytes,
which produce melanin or our skin pigment,
and Langerhans cells,
which are like little security guards
on patrol for pathogens.
The dermis, our skin’s tough second layer,
isn’t as well known.
It’s a scaffold of collagen
that’s home to blood vessels,
hair follicles and glands.
It’s also packed with special nerve cells
called sensory receptors
that allow us to feel pressure,
vibration, even pain,
some of which extend into the epidermis.
The dermis also helps
regulate temperature.
If we’re cold, our blood
vessels contract to retain heat,
and if we’re hot,
they expand to release it.
We’re told to exfoliate
and tone and condition our skin,
to use rollers and serums and lasers.
Some of that does work,
especially for folks
with specific skin conditions,
but for normal to healthy skin,
we might be spending a lot of money
on bunk products,
because healthy skin is simply skin
that does its jobs.
Myth number two – you only need
sunscreen on sunny days.
Ultraviolet rays from the sun
are so strong,
they damage our cells' DNA.
There are two types that affect the skin.
UVA rays penetrate the dermis,
damaging the collagen scaffold
and accelerating aging.
UVB rays, meanwhile,
cook the epidermis, causing sunburn.
While our cells can repair that damage,
it accumulates over time,
and for some people,
it can lead to skin cancer.
Our skin has a defense system.
When it’s exposed to UV,
our melanocytes release more melanin
and we get a tan.
This process is actually our skin’s way
of showing it’s been damaged,
and protecting itself from more.
So by wearing sunscreen with an SPF of 30,
even when it’s cloudy,
you’re protecting yourself from sunburn,
early aging and skin cancer.
Just choose one that’s broad spectrum.
That means it’s blocking UVA and UVB rays.
Myth number three –
people with darker skin
don’t need sunscreen.
Most of us produce two types of melanin –
eumelanin, associated
with richer, brown tones,
and pheomelanin, associated
with lighter skin and freckles.
Our skin color depends on the ratio
between those two types of melanin
and the density of pigment
creating structures within our cells.
It’s true that having more melanin,
specifically that first type,
does offer some protection from the sun,
depending on how dark our skin is,
we do have some natural SPF,
but it’s not nearly enough.
We all need sunscreen to ward off damage.
Black and Hispanic patients
are also more likely to have skin cancer
detected at advanced stages.
Why? Because of the many ways
that racism permeates medicine.
The majority of dermatologists are white,
and we’re trained
to diagnose on white skin.
Meanwhile, people of color
have heard this myth
of darker skin not being susceptible
to skin cancer repeated.
Black patients are also less likely
to receive early screenings,
leading to the delayed diagnosis.
One particular dangerous
form of skin cancer,
acral melanoma,
doesn’t even come
from ultraviolet exposure,
and it shows up in parts of the body
that we might not think about –
nail beds and the bottoms of our feet.
It’s an area we need more messaging about,
especially for people of color,
who experience higher levels
of distrust toward doctors
after years of mistreatment
by the American Medical System.
Myth number four –
you can shrink your pores.
Pores are the tiny openings in our skin.
If you go further down,
you’ll find a hair follicle or gland.
You can think of pores as ducts.
They’re what let sweat cool you
and oil lubricate your skin.
Pore size is largely
determined by genetics,
and they don’t really shrink,
but they can expand
when our skin is irritated
by makeup or harsh products.
So save your money on pore minimizers
and just wash your face
with what dermatologists recommend
as noncomedogenic –
basically, made from stuff
that won’t clog pores.
Myth number five – chocolate causes acne.
Acne is the inflammation that occurs
when our hair follicles get clogged
with oil and dead skin,
allowing bacteria to overgrow.
There are a lot of factors involved,
from hormones to genetics.
The link between acne and chocolate
has been studied extensively,
but the results are pretty trash.
Studies that say chocolate
is an acne aggravator
tend to be small, so aren’t conclusive,
and studies that absolve chocolate
are sometimes funded by chocolate makers.
Studying diet and its effect
on acne is complex,
but the research suggests
that the healthiest diet
for your body overall
could also be the healthiest diet
for your skin.
Our skin is an amazing organ,
so let’s remember to treat it right.
Wear your sunscreen,
keep an eye on any moles
and see a dermatologist
if there are any changes.
And ignore those myths, OK?