The life cycle of a tshirt Angel Chang

Consider the classic white t-shirt.

Annually, we sell and buy
two billion t-shirts globally,

making it one of the most common
garments in the world.

But how and where is the average
t-shirt made,

and what’s its environmental impact?

Clothing items can vary a lot,

but a typical t-shirt begins its life
on a farm in America, China, or India

where cotton seeds are sown, irrigated and
grown for the fluffy bolls they produce.

Self-driving machines carefully harvest
these puffs,

an industrial cotton gin mechanically
separates the fluffy bolls from the seeds,

and the cotton lint is pressed
into 225-kilogram bales.

The cotton plants require a huge quantity
of water and pesticides.

2,700 liters of water are needed to produce
the average t-shirt,

enough to fill more than 30 bathtubs.

Meanwhile, cotton uses more insecticides
and pesticides

than any other crop in the world.

These pollutants can be carcinogenic,

harm the health of field workers,

and damage surrounding ecosystems.

Some t-shirts are made of organic cotton
grown without pesticides and insecticides,

but organic cotton makes up less than 1%

of the 22.7 million metric tons
of cotton produced worldwide.

Once the cotton bales leave the farm,

textile mills ship them
to a spinning facility,

usually in China or India,

where high-tech machines blend,

card,

comb,

pull,

stretch,

and, finally, twist the cotton into
snowy ropes of yarn called slivers.

Then, yarns are sent to the mill,

where huge circular knitting machines

weave them into sheets
of rough grayish fabric

treated with heat and chemicals
until they turn soft and white.

Here, the fabric is dipped into
commercial bleaches and azo dyes,

which make up the vivid coloring
in about 70% of textiles.

Unfortunately, some of these contain
cancer-causing cadmium,

lead,

chromium,

and mercury.

Other harmful compounds and chemicals
can cause widespread contamination

when released as toxic waste water
in rivers and oceans.

Technologies are now so advanced
in some countries

that the entire process of growing
and producing fabric

barely touches a human hand.

But only up until this point.

After the finished cloth
travels to factories,

often in Bangladesh, China, India,
or Turkey,

human labor is still required
to stitch them up into t-shirts,

intricate work that
machines just can’t do.

This process has its own problems.

Bangladesh, for example,

which has surpassed China as the world’s
biggest exporter of cotton t-shirts,

employs 4.5 million people
in the t-shirt industry,

but they typically face poor conditions
and low wages.

After manufacture, all those t-shirts
travel by ship, train, and truck

to be sold in high-income countries,

a process that gives cotton
an enormous carbon footprint.

Some countries produce
their own clothing domestically,

which cuts out this polluting stage,

but generally, apparel production accounts
for 10% of global carbon emissions.

And it’s escalating.

Cheaper garments and the public’s
willingness to buy

boosted global production
from 1994 to 2014 by 400%

to around 80 billion garments each year.

Finally, in a consumer’s home,

the t-shirt goes through one of the most
resource-intensive phases of its lifetime.

In America, for instance,

the average household does nearly
400 loads of laundry per year

each using about 40 gallons of water.

Washing machines and dryers
both use energy,

with dryers requiring five to six times
more than washers.

This dramatic shift in clothing
consumption over the last 20 years,

driven by large corporations
and the trend of fast fashion

has cost the environment,

the health of farmers,

and driven questionable
human labor practices.

It’s also turned fashion into the second
largest polluter in the world after oil.

But there are things we can do.

Consider shopping secondhand.

Try to look for textiles made from
recycled or organic fabrics.

Wash clothes less and line dry
to save resources.

Instead of throwing them away
at the end of their life,

donate, recycle, or reuse them
as cleaning rags.

And, finally, you might ask yourself,

how many t-shirts and articles of clothing
will you consume over your lifetime,

and what will be their combined
impact on the world?

考虑经典的白色 T 恤。

每年,我们在全球销售和购买
20 亿件 T 恤,

使其成为世界上最常见的
服装之一。

但是一般的 T 恤是如何以及在哪里
制造

的,它对环境的影响是什么?

服装项目可能有很大的不同,

但一件典型的 T 恤
始于美国、中国或印度的一个农场,在

那里播种、灌溉和种植棉花种子,
以获得它们生产的蓬松棉铃。

自动驾驶机器小心翼翼地收割
这些泡芙

,工业轧棉机
将蓬松的棉铃与种子机械分离,

然后将棉绒压制
成 225 公斤的大包。

棉花植物需要大量
的水和杀虫剂。

生产一件普通的 T 恤需要 2,700 升水,

足以装满 30 多个浴缸。

与此同时,棉花使用的杀虫剂
和杀虫剂

比世界上任何其他作物都多。

这些污染物可能致癌,

损害现场工作人员的健康,

并破坏周围的生态系统。

一些 T 恤由
不含杀虫剂和杀虫剂的

有机棉制成,但在全球生产的 2270 万公吨棉花中,有机棉只占不到 1%

棉包离开农场后,

纺织厂将它们运送

通常位于中国或印度的纺纱厂,在

那里高科技机器混合、

梳理、

梳理、

拉伸、

拉伸

,最后将棉花捻成
雪白的纱线绳索 称为条子。

然后,纱线被送到工厂,

在那里巨大的圆形针织机

将它们编织成
粗糙的灰色织物,

经过热处理和化学处理,
直到它们变软变白。

在这里,织物被浸入
商业漂白剂和偶氮染料中,

这些染料构成
了约 70% 纺织品的鲜艳色彩。

不幸的是,其中一些含有
致癌的镉、

铅、

和汞。

其他有害化合物和化学物质

在河流和海洋中作为有毒废水排放时会造成广泛的污染。

现在
,一些国家的技术非常先进,

以至于种植和生产织物的整个过程

几乎不需要人手。

但仅到此为止。

在成品
布到达工厂后,

通常在孟加拉国、中国、印度
或土耳其,

仍然需要人工
将它们缝合成 T 恤,

这是
机器无法完成的复杂工作。

这个过程有它自己的问题。

例如,孟加拉国

已超过中国成为世界上
最大的棉 T 恤出口国,

T 恤行业雇佣了 450 万人,

但他们通常面临恶劣的条件
和低工资。

制造后,所有这些 T 恤
通过轮船、火车和卡车运输

到高收入国家销售,

这一过程使棉花
产生了巨大的碳足迹。

一些国家
在国内生产自己的服装,

从而消除了这个污染阶段,

但总的来说,服装生产
占全球碳排放量的 10%。

而且它正在升级。 从 1994 年到 2014 年,

更便宜的服装和公众的
购买意愿

使全球服装产量
增长了 400%

,达到每年约 800 亿件。

最后,在消费者家中

,T 恤经历
了其生命周期中资源最密集的阶段之一。

例如,在美国,

平均每个家庭
每年洗衣服近 400 次,

每人使用约 40 加仑的水。

洗衣机和干衣机
都使用能源

,干衣机需要的能源是洗衣机的五到
六倍。

过去 20 年,

在大公司
和快时尚趋势的推动下,服装消费发生了巨大变化,这不仅

损害了环境,也

损害了农民的健康,

并引发了令人质疑的
人类劳动实践。

它还把时尚变成了
仅次于石油的世界第二大污染源。

但有些事情我们可以做。

考虑购买二手货。

尝试寻找由
回收或有机织物制成的纺织品。

少洗衣服,晾干
以节省资源。

与其
在生命结束时将它们扔掉,不如

捐赠、回收或再利用它们
作为清洁抹布。

最后,您可能会问自己,您一生中会消费

多少件 T 恤和服装

它们
对世界的综合影响是什么?