How adaptive clothing empowers people with disabilities Mindy Scheier

I love fashion.

I actually go to bed every night
thinking about what I’m going to wear

the next day.

Clothing transforms me,

defines me,

gives me confidence.

You may not feel
the same way about fashion,

but I bet you have a favorite T-shirt
or a pair of jeans that transforms you –

makes you feel good,

makes you feel confident,

makes you feel like you.

When I was younger,

I wanted to be Betsey Johnson.

I thought we were kindred,
crazy-hair spirits together.

I did go to fashion design,

I worked in the industry for years

and loved it.

I married,

I had three kids.

But life can be heartbreakingly ironic.

My middle child, Oliver, was born
with a rare form of muscular dystrophy,

or MD.

MD affects his muscle strength,

his pulmonary system,

distorts his body

and makes everyday life
more challenging than most.

From the time he could walk,

which wasn’t until about two and a half,

he had to wear leg braces for stability.

Because he wasn’t growing appropriately,

he had to wear a feeding tube
that was placed on his face.

He endured stares, and so did I.

But my husband Greg and I told him

that no matter what,

he was just like everybody else.

But everyday tasks for Oliver

that we all take for granted

were incredibly challenging.

That simple act of dressing yourself –
the very thing that I adore –

was a nightmare for him.

His form of MD does not affect his mind.

His brain is an A-plus,

which means he’s acutely aware
of his shortcomings.

This became very evident
when he started school,

and that daily act of dressing yourself
was a constant reminder

of what he could and could not do.

So our solution was for Oliver
to wear sweatpants every day:

to school,

to parties,

on vacations –

his uniform.

For special occasions,
he would wear proper pants.

But many times, because he couldn’t manage
the button and zipper,

I would have to take him
to the men’s room,

which was incredibly embarrassing for him

and the other men that were in there.

But them – I said, “Oh, please.
There’s nothing I haven’t seen before.”

(Laughter)

For years we muddled through.

But when Oliver was in third grade,

I found out he was more like me
than I ever imagined.

Oliver, too, cared about fashion.

He came home from school one day
and said very definitively

that he was going to wear jeans to school
like everybody else gets to wear.

Well, I certainly couldn’t go
to class with him

and take him to the boys' room,

but there was no way
I was telling my eight-year-old

that he couldn’t wear
what he wanted to wear.

So that night,

I MacGyvered the hell out of his jeans.

I remembered when I was pregnant

and unwilling to stop wearing
my own favorite pants,

even though I was busting out of them,

that rubber-band trick.

You moms remember what I’m talking about?

The rubber band through the buttonhole,

around the button and back?

Instant stretch.

So I removed the zipper

so he could pull it
up and down on his own.

I cut up the side seam
of the bottom of his pants

to accommodate for his leg braces,

applied Velcro –

hold your ears, everybody:
peel and stick, mind you –

so that it would close around it.

When I showed Oliver
my arts and crafts project,

he absolutely beamed.

He went into school
with his head held so high.

Those jeans transformed him.

He was able to get dressed on his own,

he was able to go
to the bathroom on his own;

those jeans gave him confidence.

I didn’t realize it at the time,

but this was my first foray
into the world of adaptive clothing.

Adaptive clothing is defined as clothing
designed for people with disabilities,

the elderly

and anyone who struggles
with dressing themselves.

Adaptive clothing did exist,

but it was missing that mainstream
fashion component.

It was very medicinal and very functional

but not stylish.

And that’s a huge problem,

because what you wear matters.

Clothing can affect your mood,

your health

and your self-esteem.

Now, being a fashion lover,
I’ve known this forever,

but scientists actually
have a name for it.

It’s called “Enclothed Cognition,”

the co-occurrence of two factors:

the symbolic meaning of clothing

and the physical experience
of wearing the clothing,

both of which have a direct correlation
to how you feel about yourself.

There’s actually a professor in the UK
by the name of Karen J. Pine.

She wrote a book called
“Mind What You Wear:

The Psychology of Fashion.”

She states in her book

that when you put clothes on,

you adapt the characteristics
of what you’re wearing,

whether you realize it or not.

That’s why you feel like a rock star

when you put on
those perfect-fitting jeans.

That’s why you feel invincible
when you put on that power suit,

and that’s why you feel beautiful

in that little black dress.

But that’s exactly why
Oliver felt so isolated

when he couldn’t wear
what he wanted to wear.

He even said to me one time,

“Mom, wearing sweatpants every day

makes me feel like I’m dressing disabled.”

There are one billion people on our planet

that experience some type of disability.

One billion.

If 10 percent of that billion
experience clothing challenges,

that’s an enormous amount of people
that may not be as confident,

as successful

or even as happy as they could be.

The morning after Oliver left for school
wearing those jeans,

I realized that I could
do something about that.

And so I did.

In 2013, I founded an organization
called Runway of Dreams.

The mission was to educate
the fashion industry

that modifications could be made
to mainstream clothing

for this community
that has never been served.

And it began with an entire
year of research.

I went to schools, I went to facilities,
I went to hospitals.

I literally chased down people
on the street who were in wheelchairs

or if they had walkers

or even if they had a slight limp.

(Laughter)

I know I must have looked insane,

but I knew that if I was really
going to make a difference,

I had to truly understand
the clothing challenges

of as many different people
as I possibly could.

I met a young man who was 18
who has cerebral palsy.

He was going to Harvard University.

He said to me, “Can you imagine?

I got myself into Harvard,

but my dream is to be able
to wear jeans on campus,

like the other freshmen will wear.”

I met a little girl named Gianna,

who was missing
her left forearm and her hand.

Her mother told me

she could not bear to see
her daughter’s difference magnified

by a dangling sleeve,

so she had every single long-sleeve shirt
professionally tailored.

Can you imagine the time
and money she spent?

I also had the great privilege
of spending time with Eric LeGrand,

former Rutgers football player
who was paralyzed during a tackle in 2010.

I had, at this point,
seen some unfathomable things,

but this, by far,
was the most heart-stopping.

You see, Eric is a really big guy,

and it took two aides
and a lifting machine

to get him dressed.

I sat and watched this process
for over two hours.

When I expressed my shock to Eric,

he looked at me and said,

“Mindy, this is every single day.

What can I say?

I like to look sharp.”

Research done.

I knew that if I was going to make
a change in the industry,

I had to use my background

and really figure out
how to make these clothes modified.

So I took the information
I gathered over that past year,

and I figured out that there were
actually three categories

that were affected across the board.

The first were closures.

Buttons, snaps, zippers, hook-and-eyes
were a challenge for almost everybody.

So I replaced them
with a more manageable technology:

magnets.

Magnets made our Harvard freshman
able to wear jeans on campus,

because he could dress himself.

Second: adjustability.

Pant lengths, sleeve lengths, waistbands

were a challenge for so many
different-shaped bodies.

So I added elastic,

an internal hemming system.

This way, Gianna could wear
a shirt right off the rack

and just adjust the one sleeve.

Last: alternate ways to get
the clothing on and off the body,

outside the traditional way
of over your head.

So I designed a way to go in arms first.

This, for somebody like Eric,

could actually take five steps
off his dressing process

and give him back the gift of time.

So I went out,

I bought clothing right off the rack,

I sat at my kitchen table,
ripped them apart,

did prototype after prototype,
until I felt I had great modifications.

And then I was ready for the big leagues:

the fashion industry.

Rather than designing my own collection,

I knew if I was really
going to make a difference,

I had to go mainstream.

I believed that I just needed
to educate the industry

of the enormity of this population

and the fact that these were consumers

that simply weren’t being considered.

And I am thrilled to say
that the industry heard me.

Runway of Dreams collaborated
with the most amazing,

forward-thinking brand on our planet –

(Applause)

who took my vision to market

and made fashion history

by launching the first mainstream
adaptive collection.

And the rest is yet to come.

(Applause)

So –

(Applause)

Fashion holds the key to a vital lifeline.

Clothing can be transformative.

Clothing equals confidence.

So tomorrow,

when you are starting your day

and you’re thinking about
what you’re going to wear,

I hope you appreciate the process

and think about how what you chose

makes you feel.

Today, Oliver is 13.

He wears his adaptive khakis,

his magnetic button-front shirt –

feels like the coolest kid around.

My boy has total swagger.

(Laughter)

As I mentioned,

Oliver’s disease is degenerative,

which means his muscles
are going to break down over time.

This, by far, is the most
devastating part for me.

I have to sit on the sidelines

and watch my boy deteriorate.

And there’s nothing I can do about it.

So I am looking up from the things
that I cannot control

to the things that I can,

because I have no option.

And so, I am looking up.

And I’m asking the fashion
industry to look up.

And now, I’m asking all of you

to look up, too.

Thank you.

(Applause)

我爱时尚。

实际上,我每天晚上睡觉时都会
想着

第二天要穿什么。

服装改变了我,

定义了我,

给了我信心。

你可能
对时尚有不同的感觉,

但我敢打赌,你有一件最喜欢的 T 恤
或一条牛仔裤可以改变你——

让你感觉良好,

让你感到自信,

让你感觉像你一样。

当我年轻的时候,

我想成为 Betsey Johnson。

我以为我们是志同道合的,
疯狂的头发精神在一起。

我确实从事过时装设计,

我在这个行业工作了多年

并且很喜欢它。

我结婚了,生

了三个孩子。

但生活可能是令人心碎的讽刺。

我的中间孩子奥利弗出生时
患有一种罕见的肌营养不良症

或 MD。

MD 影响他的肌肉力量、

他的肺系统、

扭曲他的身体

并使日常生活
比大多数人更具挑战性。

从他可以走路开始,

也就是大约两岁半,

他必须戴上腿托以保持稳定。

因为他的生长不正常,

他不得不戴上
放在脸上的喂食管。

他忍受了凝视,我也是。

但我丈夫格雷格和我告诉他

,无论如何,

他和其他人一样。

我们都认为理所当然

的 Oliver 的日常任务非常具有挑战性。

为自己穿衣的这种简单行为
——这正是我所喜欢的——

对他来说是一场噩梦。

他的 MD 形式不会影响他的思想。

他的大脑是A+,

这意味着他敏锐地
意识到自己的缺点。

当他开始上学时

,这一点变得非常明显,每天给自己穿衣的行为
不断

提醒他什么能做什么不能做什么。

所以我们的解决方案是让奥利弗
每天穿运动裤

:上学、

参加派对、

度假——

他的制服。

在特殊场合,
他会穿合适的裤子。

但很多时候,因为他无法
控制纽扣和拉链,

我不得不带他
去男厕所,

这对他

和那里的其他人来说是非常尴尬的。

但是他们——我说,“哦,拜托。
我以前没有见过什么。”

(笑声)

多年来,我们都是糊里糊涂的。

但是当奥利弗上三年级的时候,

我发现他
比我想象的更像我。

奥利弗也关心时尚。

有一天,他放学回家,
非常明确地

说,他要
像其他人一样穿牛仔裤上学。

好吧,我当然不能
和他一起去上课

,带他去男孩的房间,


我不可能告诉我八岁的孩子

他不能穿
他想穿的衣服。

所以那天晚上,

我把他的牛仔裤脱掉了。

我记得当我怀孕

并且不愿意停止穿
我自己最喜欢的裤子时,

即使我正在摆脱它们,

那个橡皮筋把戏。

妈妈们还记得我在说什么吗?

穿过纽扣孔、

纽扣周围和背面的橡皮筋?

即时拉伸。

所以我取下了拉链,

这样他就可以
自己上下拉动了。

我剪断了
他裤子底部的侧缝

以适应他的腿托,

使用魔术贴——

每个人都握住你的耳朵:请注意,
剥皮并粘住——

这样它就会在它周围合上。

当我向奥利弗展示
我的手工艺品项目时,

他非常高兴。

他昂着头走进学校。

那条牛仔裤改变了他。

他可以自己穿衣服,

可以
自己上厕所;

那些牛仔裤给了他信心。

当时我并没有意识到这一点,

但这是我第一次
涉足自适应服装的世界。

适应性服装被定义
为为残疾人

、老年人

和任何
为自己着装而苦恼的人设计的服装。

适应性服装确实存在,

但它缺少主流
时尚元素。

它非常药用,非常实用,

但不时尚。

这是一个大问题,

因为你穿什么很重要。

衣服会影响你的心情

、健康

和自尊。

现在,作为一个时尚爱好者,
我一直都知道这一点,

但科学家们实际上
给它起了个名字。

它被称为“穿衣认知

”,两个因素同时出现:

衣服的象征意义

和穿着衣服的身体
体验,

这两者都
与你对自己的感觉直接相关。

在英国实际上有一位
名叫凯伦·J·派恩的教授。

她写了一本书,名为
《注意你穿什么

:时尚心理学》。

她在她的书中

说,当你穿上衣服时,

你会适应
你所穿衣服的特点,

不管你是否意识到这一点。

这就是为什么

当你
穿上完美合身的牛仔裤时,你会感觉自己像个摇滚明星。

这就是为什么
当你穿上那套动力套装时你会感到无敌

,这就是为什么你穿上

那件小黑裙会感觉很漂亮。

但这正是为什么

当奥利弗不能穿
他想穿的衣服时,他会感到如此孤立的原因。

有一次他还对我说:

“妈妈,每天穿运动裤

让我觉得自己穿衣有问题。”

我们这个星球上有 10 亿人

患有某种类型的残疾。

十亿。

如果这 10 亿人中有 10% 的人
经历过服装挑战,

那么就有大量的人
可能不会像他们应该的那样自信

、成功

甚至快乐。

奥利弗穿着那条牛仔裤去上学后的第二天早上

我意识到我可以
为此做点什么。

所以我做到了。

2013 年,我创立了一个
名为 Runway of Dreams 的组织。

其使命是
教育时尚行业

,可以

这个从未服务过的社区的主流服装进行修改。

它始于
一整年的研究。

我去了学校,我去了设施,
我去了医院。

我真的
在街上追赶坐在轮椅上的人,

或者他们是否有步行者,

或者即使他们有轻微的跛行。

(笑声)

我知道我一定看起来很疯狂,

但我知道如果我真的
要有所作为,

我必须真正了解

尽可能多的不同人的服装挑战

我遇到了一个 18
岁的脑瘫年轻人。

他要去哈佛大学。

他对我说:“你能想象吗?

我进了哈佛,

但我的梦想是能够
在校园里穿牛仔裤,

就像其他新生一样。”

我遇到了一个名叫吉安娜的小女孩,

她的左前臂和手都不见了。

她的母亲告诉我,

她不忍心看到
她女儿的差异

被一个悬垂的袖子放大,

所以她每一件长袖衬衫都经过
专业定制。

你能想象
她花费的时间和金钱吗?

我也
有幸与前罗格斯大学足球运动员埃里克·勒格朗共度时光,

他在 2010 年的一次铲球中瘫痪。

在这一点上,我
看到了一些深不可测的事情,

但到目前为止,这
是最令人心碎的 .

你看,埃里克是个非常大的家伙

,他需要两个助手
和一台起重机

才能让他穿好衣服。

我坐下来观看了这个
过程两个多小时。

当我向 Eric 表达我的震惊时,

他看着我说:

“Mindy,这是每一天。

我能说什么?

我喜欢看起来很犀利。”

研究完成。

我知道,如果我要
改变这个行业,

我必须利用我的背景

,真正想出
如何让这些衣服改头换面。

因此
,我收集了过去一年收集的信息

,发现
实际上有三个

类别受到了全面影响。

首先是关闭。

纽扣、按扣、拉链、钩眼扣
对几乎每个人来说都是一个挑战。

所以我
用一种更易于管理的技术取代了它们:

磁铁。

磁铁使我们的哈佛新生
能够在校园里穿牛仔裤,

因为他可以自己穿衣服。

第二:可调节性。

裤长、袖长、腰带

对这么多
不同体型的身材来说都是一个挑战。

所以我添加了弹性,

一个内部卷边系统。

这样一来,吉安娜就可以
直接从架子上穿上一件衬衫

,只需调整一个袖子。

最后:
穿上和脱下衣服的替代方法,而

不是传统
的穿在头上的方式。

所以我设计了一种先武装起来的方法。

对于像埃里克这样的人来说,

这实际上可以
让他的穿衣过程减少五个步骤,

并给他时间的礼物。

所以我出去了,

我从架子上买了衣服,

我坐在厨房的桌子旁,
把它们撕开,一个接一个地

做原型,
直到我觉得我有很大的修改。

然后我为大联盟做好了准备

:时尚产业。

与其设计自己的系列,

我知道如果我真的
要有所作为,

我必须成为主流。

我相信我只需
要让行业

了解这个人口的庞大

以及这些

根本没有被考虑的消费者这一事实。

我很高兴地
说这个行业听到了我的声音。

Runway of Dreams
与我们这个星球上最令人惊叹、最具

前瞻性的品牌合作——

(掌声)

他将我的愿景带入市场,

通过推出第一个主流
自适应系列来创造时尚历史。

其余的还没有到来。

(掌声)

所以——

(掌声)

时尚掌握着生命线的关键。

服装可以是变革性的。

服装等于自信。

所以明天,

当你开始新的一天

并考虑
要穿什么时,

我希望你能欣赏这个过程

,想想你选择的衣服

给你的感觉。

今天,奥利弗 13 岁。

他穿着他的自适应卡其裤,

他的磁性纽扣衬衫——

感觉就像周围最酷的孩子。

我的男孩大摇大摆。

(笑声)

正如我提到的,

奥利弗的病是退化的,

这意味着他的
肌肉会随着时间的推移而分解。

到目前为止,这
对我来说是最具破坏性的部分。

我不得不坐在

场边看着我的孩子恶化。

我对此无能为力。

所以我正在从
我无法

控制的事情中寻找我可以控制的事情,

因为我别无选择。

所以,我正在抬头。

我要求时尚
界向上看。

现在,我要求你们所有人

也抬头看看。

谢谢你。

(掌声)