The 3000year history of the hoodie Small Thing Big Idea a TED series

Translator: Camille Martínez
Reviewer: Krystian Aparta

The hoodie is an amazing object.

It’s one of those timeless objects
that we hardly think of,

because they work so well
that they’re part of our lives.

We call them “humble masterpieces.”

[Small thing.]

[Big idea.]

[Paola Antonelli on
the Hoodie]

The hoodie has been –
even if it was not called so –

it’s been an icon throughout history
for good and for bad reasons.

The earliest ones that we can trace

are from ancient Greece and ancient Rome.

The Middle Ages, you see a lot of monks

that were wearing garments
that were cape-like, with hoods attached,

so therefore, “hoodies.”

Ladies in the 17th century
would wear hoodies

to kind of hide themselves
when they were going to meet their lovers.

And then, of course,
there’s the legend, there’s fantasy.

There’s the image of the hoodie
connected to the grim reaper.

There’s the image of the hoodie
connected to the executioner.

So there’s the dark side of the hoodie.

The modern incarnation of the hoodie –

a garment that’s made
usually of cotton jersey,

that has a hood attached
with a drawstring;

sometimes it has a marsupial pocket –

was introduced in the 1930s
by Knickerbocker Knitting Company.

Now it’s called Champion.

It was meant to keep athletes warm.

Of course, though, it was
such a functional, comfortable garment

that it was very rapidly adopted
by workmen everywhere.

And then, around the 1980s,
it also gets adopted

by hip-hop and B-boys, skateboarders,

and it takes on this kind of
youth street culture.

It was, at the same time,
super-comfortable,

perfect for the streets

and also had that added value of anonymity

when you needed it.

And then we have Mark Zuckerberg,

who defies convention
of respectable attire for businesspeople.

But interestingly, it’s also a way to show
how power has changed.

If you’re wearing a two-piece suit,
you might be the bodyguard.

The real powerful person is wearing
a hoodie with a T-shirt and jeans.

It’s easy to think of
the physical aspects of the hoodie.

You can immediately think
of wearing the hood up,

and you feel this warmth
and this protection,

but at the same time,

you can also feel
the psychological aspects of it.

I mean, think of donning a hoodie,

all of a sudden, you feel more protected,

you feel that you are in your own shell.

We know very well what the hoodie
has come to signify

in the past few years
in the United States.

When Trayvon Martin, a 17-year-old
African-American kid,

was shot by a neighborhood vigilante,

and Million Hoodie Marches happened
all over the United States,

in which people wore hoodies
with the hood up

and marched in the streets
against this kind of prejudice.

It doesn’t happen that often

for a garment to have
so much symbolism and history

and that encompasses
so many different universes

as the hoodie.

So, like all garments,

especially all truly utilitarian garments,

it is very basic in its design.

But at the same time,

it has a whole universe
of possibilities attached.

译者:Camille Martínez
审稿人:Krystian

Aparta 连帽衫是一件了不起的事情。


是我们几乎没有想到的那些永恒的对象之一,

因为它们工作得很好
,以至于它们成为我们生活的一部分。

我们称它们为“不起眼的杰作”。

[小东西。]

[大创意。]

[连帽衫上的 Paola Antonelli

] 连帽衫一直——
即使它没有被这样称呼——

它在整个历史上都是一个标志,无论是
出于好还是坏的原因。

我们可以追溯到的最早的

来自古希腊和古罗马。

中世纪,你看到很多

僧侣都穿着
披风般的衣服,连着兜帽,

所以叫“帽衫”。

17世纪的女士们在去见爱人时
会穿连帽衫

来隐藏自己

然后,当然,
有传说,有幻想。

连帽衫的形象与死神
有关。

连帽衫的图像
与刽子手有关。

所以这件连帽衫有阴暗面。

连帽衫的现代化身——

一种
通常由棉质针织面料制成的服装,

带有一个带束带的连帽衫;

有时它有一个有袋动物的口袋——

由 Knickerbocker 针织公司在 1930 年代推出

现在它被称为冠军。

这是为了让运动员保持温暖。

当然,尽管如此,它是
如此的实用、舒适

,以至于它很快就被
各地的工人所采用。

然后,在 1980 年代左右,
它也

被嘻哈和 B-boy、滑板手所采用,

并呈现出这种
青年街头文化。

同时,它
非常舒适,

非常适合街头使用,

并且在您需要时还具有匿名的附加价值

然后我们有马克扎克伯格,

他无视
商人体面的着装惯例。

但有趣的是,这也是
展示权力如何变化的一种方式。

如果你穿着两件套西装,
你可能是保镖。

真正厉害的人是穿
连帽衫搭配T恤和牛仔裤。

很容易想到
连帽衫的物理方面。

你可以马上
想到把兜帽戴上

,你会感受到这种温暖
和这种保护,

但同时

你也能感受到
它的心理方面。

我的意思是,想想穿上一件连帽衫,

突然之间,你会感到更有保护,

你会觉得你在自己的壳里。

我们非常清楚过去几年连帽衫

在美国意味着什么。

当 17 岁的
非裔美国孩子 Trayvon Martin

被社区治安警察枪杀时

,美国各地发生了百万连帽衫游行

,人们穿着带帽的连帽衫

上街游行
反对这种 的偏见。

一件衣服
很少有这么多的象征意义和历史,

并且像连帽衫一样包含
这么多不同的宇宙

因此,就像所有服装,

尤其是所有真正实用的服装一样,

它的设计非常基础。

但与此同时,

它还附带着整个宇宙
的可能性。