Fashion that celebrates African strength and spirit Wal Oyjid
It is often said that the stories
of history are written by its victors,
but if this is true,
what becomes of the downtrodden,
and how can they ever hope
to aspire for something greater
if they are never told the stories
of their own glorious pasts?
Ostensibly, I stand before you
as a mere maker of clothing,
but within the folds of ancient fabrics
and modern textiles,
I have found a higher calling.
Through my work as a designer,
I’ve discovered the importance
of providing representation
for the marginalized members
of our society,
and the importance of telling
the most vulnerable among us
that they no longer have
to compromise themselves
just so they can fit in
with an uncompromising majority.
It turns out that fashion,
a discipline many of us
consider to be trivial,
can actually be a powerful tool
for dismantling bias
and bolstering the self-images
of underrepresented populations.
My interest in using design
as a vehicle for social change
happens to be a personal one.
As a Nigerian American,
I know how easily the term “African”
can slip from being
an ordinary geographic descriptor
to becoming a pejorative.
For those of us
from this beautiful continent,
to be African is to be inspired by culture
and to be filled with undying
hope for the future.
So in an attempt to shift
the misguided perceptions that many have
about the place of my birth,
I use design as a means to tell stories,
stories about joy,
stories about triumph,
stories about perseverance
all throughout the African diaspora.
I tell these stories
as a concerted effort
to correct the historical record,
because, no matter
where any of us is from,
each of us has been touched
by the complicated histories
that brought our families
to a foreign land.
These histories shape
the way we view the world,
and they mold the biases
we carry around with us.
To combat these biases,
my work draws aesthetics
from different parts of the globe
and crafts a narrative
about the importance
of fighting for inclusivity.
By refashioning images
from classic European art
and marrying them with African aesthetics,
I am able to recast people of color
in roles of prominence,
providing them with a degree of dignity
they didn’t have in earlier times.
This approach subverts the historically
accepted narrative of African inferiority,
and it serves as inspiration
for people of color
who have grown wary of seeing
themselves depicted without sophistication
and without grace.
Each of these culture-bending tapestries
becomes a tailored garment
or a silk scarf, like the one I am
very coincidentally wearing right now.
(Laughter)
And even when surrounded
in a structure of European classicism,
these narratives boldly extoll
the merits of African empowerment.
In this way, the tools of the masters
become masterworks
to celebrate those
who were once subservient.
This metaphor extends
beyond the realm of art
and out into the real world.
Whether worn by refugees
or world-changing entrepreneurs,
when people are allowed
the freedom to present themselves
in a manner that celebrates
their own unique identities,
a magical thing happens.
We stand taller.
We’re more proud and self-aware
because we’re presenting
our true, authentic selves.
And those of us who are around them
in turn become more educated,
more open and more tolerant
of their different points of view.
In this way, the clothes that we wear
can be a great illustration
of diplomatic soft power.
The clothes that we wear
can serve as bridges
between our seemingly disparate cultures.
And so, yeah, ostensibly I stand
before you as a mere maker of clothing.
But my work has always
been about more than fashion.
It has become my purpose
to rewrite the cultural narratives
so that people of color can be seen
in a new and nuanced light,
and so that we,
the proud children of sub-Saharan Africa,
can traverse the globe
while carrying ourselves with pride.
It was indeed true
that the stories of history
were told by its old victors,
but I am of a new generation.
My work speaks for those
who will no longer let their futures
be dictated by a troubled past.
Today, we stand ready
to tell our own stories
without compromise, without apologies.
But the question still remains:
are you prepared
for what you are about to hear?
I hope you are, because
we are coming regardless.
(Applause)